How to put into words the March of January 11 - this is going to be a long post - sorry if it rambles but Voltaire I am not - eloquence may fail me but I hope to share how amazing, inspiring and humbling the march to Republique was for myself and my family. No snark or sarcasm here - just a feeble attempt to share this amazing adventure.
And we were lucky enough to participate in this historic and meaningful event! According to official reports, over 1.7 million people marched in Paris and 3.7 million in France - the biggest demonstration EVER. The atmosphere was solemn and yet celebratory, almost joyful. Families brought kids, parents pushed babies in strollers, elderly people with their canes - people of all ages, races, colors and creeds walked the 3 kilometers in solidarity. "Je suis Charlie." "Je suis juifs."
Students created fantastic posters and props - all referencing pens, cartoons and freedom of speech, the freedom to love and the freedom to live without fear.
Often the crowd erupted in applause or chants of "Charlie" or even more special and rare, the singing of "La Marseillaise" - maybe a little off key but sang with great enthusiasm and joy.
Often the crowd erupted in applause or chants of "Charlie" or even more special and rare, the singing of "La Marseillaise" - maybe a little off key but sang with great enthusiasm and joy.
The metro stations along the demonstration route were closed so we ended up at Bastille and followed the masses of people towards Boulevard Voltaire. It was almost a pre-march and there was some confusion as to which direction to walk. There were cries of "à la Bastille" - which I thought was awesome because I felt like we were back in the time of the Revolution, minus the angry mobs and the threat of the guillotine!
Another unusual sight was the tricolor - the official French flag. Recently the connotation has been negative, associated with the far right political party and its message of intolerance and xenophobia. Not today - the flag was proudly waved and when the crowds broke out in song, it was just like a scene from "Les Mis."
Now I made a few rookie mistakes - the kids weren't fed and pre-pottied properly and we arrived early for the march, forgetting that the French rarely start anything on time! So we left before the kids completely melted down. Two hours of standing and shuffling along with the masses was just too much for the girls - with great reluctance we made our way back to the Bastille metro station.
And yet our detour was an adventure. One path found us at the bottom of a set of street stairs, people milling about and then, the strains of "Ode to Joy" fill the air - someone opened their windows and played the beautiful song for the crowds. How incredible!
Another detour found us at the offices of Charlie Hebdo - barricades still in place and intimidating police officers standing guard. Flowers, candles, cartoons and messages of support and solidarity cover the side of the building and sidewalk. Here the air was silent, somber and sacred with people paying their respects.
Another unusual sight was the tricolor - the official French flag. Recently the connotation has been negative, associated with the far right political party and its message of intolerance and xenophobia. Not today - the flag was proudly waved and when the crowds broke out in song, it was just like a scene from "Les Mis."
Now I made a few rookie mistakes - the kids weren't fed and pre-pottied properly and we arrived early for the march, forgetting that the French rarely start anything on time! So we left before the kids completely melted down. Two hours of standing and shuffling along with the masses was just too much for the girls - with great reluctance we made our way back to the Bastille metro station.
And yet our detour was an adventure. One path found us at the bottom of a set of street stairs, people milling about and then, the strains of "Ode to Joy" fill the air - someone opened their windows and played the beautiful song for the crowds. How incredible!
Another detour found us at the offices of Charlie Hebdo - barricades still in place and intimidating police officers standing guard. Flowers, candles, cartoons and messages of support and solidarity cover the side of the building and sidewalk. Here the air was silent, somber and sacred with people paying their respects.
Back home, I turn on the news and immediately chills run down my arms - the images of the thousands of people marching are amazing and humbling. Why am I home, warm and safe and not out there?! I start pestering my husband to go back out and join again. I want to be part of this event that is so monumental and awe-inspiring. He finally agrees and this time we leave the kids!
Jump on the Metro and 30 minutes later we are at the Oberkampf station - just a few blocks past La Republique - perfect! We are able to join the tail end of the march - and it is still continuing, four hours after it began! And the atmosphere continues to be full of joy, peace and resolve - the people are still singing, still chanting and still clapping. Parents are still pushing their strollers, the elderly are still walking and still there is no fear.
Jump on the Metro and 30 minutes later we are at the Oberkampf station - just a few blocks past La Republique - perfect! We are able to join the tail end of the march - and it is still continuing, four hours after it began! And the atmosphere continues to be full of joy, peace and resolve - the people are still singing, still chanting and still clapping. Parents are still pushing their strollers, the elderly are still walking and still there is no fear.
And here on Boulevard Voltaire, the kiosks and bus stops were plastered with posters - "Je suis Charlie"
And of course, the entrepreneurial spirit came out - on the sidewalks were food trucks! Some enterprising citizens were out there making money and supporting their fellow man and feeding them. Of course, they had "je suis Charlie" plastered next to the menus!
For me, the stereotypes of the French were swept away - the people were warm, friendly, open and caring and walking arm in arm. No one was rude or cold or hostile. Nous sommes Charlie. Nous sommes Juifs. Nous sommes Français.
What a privilege to share this experience with my adopted home. Despite how any one feels about the French, in my humble opinion, this week France lived up to it's values, to the principles of the Enlightenment. The right to mock, satirize and poke fun of those to take themselves too seriously dates back to 1640 and nothing will destroy this cherished French tradition. I am still trying to make sense of what I have seen and heard and felt - this will be with me for a long time. I hope that I have been able to share some of this with you - any errors or ramblings are my own and I apologize in advance. One last thought - the thing that struck me the most was that no one was really afraid - life went on as if nothing had changed and yet, the very atmosphere of Paris did - for a few days there has been a feeling of community - and that is often hard to find in such a large city. Wow.